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    September 13

    初秋上

    看马小粒写了一篇《初秋》,想着真是,真是,我也预备要抒情一番的, 被她抢了先去。
    我能想到的秋天是明亮成熟的,是清爽高远的,又是香香甜甜的。它是橘子、柿子和桂花糖炒栗子。
    还有肥美的大闸蟹,还有灿烂的菊花。可以令人浮想连篇。
    月圆的时候,是滋味悠长的月饼。可以用力追忆,思念许多。
     
    回常州办事,周六去,周日回。
    早就明白这个城市一如初恋般不属于我了;但有些记忆和惦记却长进身体里,如影随形。
    早餐的惯例总是老爸去买的麻糕包油条,和豆腐汤。嗯,不是豆腐脑或豆腐花,是只在本地有的豆腐汤。取嫩豆腐、鸡鸭血、百叶丝,肉糜、豆渣饼等勾芡而成,再撒上一把香菜末。敦实、鲜美,意犹未尽。
    中午一定要去同济立交桥下面的老牌牛肉店,吃牛肉锅贴和粉丝汤。上海也有油豆腐粉丝汤,但还是不要提了吧。
    下午可以乘六毛钱的公交车去化龙巷面店那里买“金大栗”。这个总部的门口永远是要排队的,但也只有这个总部炒出的栗子,才够香够甜够味道。分店就算了,所谓“失之毫厘,谬以千里”,为此我从不惜舍近求远。
    还有傍晚,到菜场上去觅新鲜“敲”出来的鱼丸,鲜嫩无比,还顺便捎点肉丸。用它们烧一个清澈见底的汤,丢下几片黑木耳及少许葱花,盛在白瓷大碗里,那份意境美得堪比中国山水画。我以为,上海所有号称的鱼丸都不是鱼丸,它们至多是芋艿。
    在常州,做鱼丸卖的多是下岗工人。我觉得如果他们来上海肯定会做大做强,可是他们不。这一点,常州人执拗保守得像北海道种稻子的农民,只是自产自销。于是上海滩上无鱼丸。可惜又可惜。
    北环喧嚣的夜排挡还说么?文发那一家,是最不能忘记的呀。就算深夜11点,一个电话打给表弟,也还是要去的。这次时间紧,就约国庆吧!
     
    对的,上述都是食物。给人温暖的家乡的食物。
    没错,我习惯用食物串起对某个人或某个地方的怀念。

    Comments (3)

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    Sissi Marvinwrote:
    鱼丸,又是鱼丸哦!真想吃一下……
    Sept. 16
    lili mawrote:
    你的怀念比我多
    Sept. 14
    Gracewrote:
    家乡=食物+人。。。
    Sept. 14

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